An Interview With Martita Mestey
Be prepared to be ‘on’ around the clock. Given the extended hours of operation for restaurants, expect to receive calls, emails, or messages at all hours. Furthermore, the times when you’ll likely be busiest often coincide with when most people you know are free.
As a part of our series about “5 Things I Wish Someone Told Me Before I Became a Restaurateur”, I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing Sebastian Ramirez Degollado.
Sebastian Ramirez Degollado serves as the General Manager at Casa Carmen. He earned his degree in Hospitality Management from the Ecole Hoteliere de Lausanne in Switzerland. Prior to assuming his current role, he garnered valuable experience within his family’s restaurant group situated in Mexico City. A few years ago, he joined forces with his brother Santiago in New York City to embark on an exciting new venture that pays homage to their grandmother’s legacy. Their inaugural location opened its doors in Tribeca in April 2022, swiftly followed by a second in Flatiron in June 2023.
Thank you so much for doing this with us! Our readers would love to ‘get to know’ you a bit. Can you share with our readers a story about what inspired you to become a restaurateur?
My upbringing certainly played a significant role. For slightly over five decades, my family has been involved in the restaurant industry, spanning three generations, all of whom have contributed to or are actively involved in the business. So, it’s no surprise that during family reunions, conversation has always revolved around food and restaurants. Naturally, the idea of expanding beyond Mexico had been a recurring topic. Without a doubt, my grandmother stands as my biggest inspiration. After becoming a young widow with five children, she dedicated her life to the restaurant business to provide for her family. Her commitment not only sustained themm, but also allowed her to share her profound knowledge of traditional Mexican cuisine. Equally inspiring is my father, who abandoned his finance-driven career to assist his mother in expanding the family restaurant into a second location. Fast forward 15 years or so, and now there are 19 locations throughout the greater Mexico City area, with one more under construction in Madrid, Spain. Ever since the inception of Casa Carmen my admiration for both of them has grown as I continue to realize all the obstacles and hard work they poured in these past decades.
Do you have a specific type of food that you focus on? What was it that first drew you to cooking that type of food? Can you share a story about that with us?
Considering our history, it’s no surprise that we’ve exclusively focused on traditional Mexican cuisine. Fortunately, my grandmother has collected a great number of recipes from her family, friends and travels across Mexico. This extensive repertoire offers us a wide array of dishes to explore, including some that I haven’t had the chance to try myself yet!
Can you share the funniest or most interesting story that happened to you since you became a restaurateur? What was the lesson or take away you took out of that story?
After months of planning and hard work, the opening day had finally arrived. The bar was stocked, the kitchen stoves were on and the tables were set up, we were ready to open that same night. A few hours before, I got a call informing me that the mirror that covers part of the dining room wall wouldn’t make it in time. We were left with a big empty wooden frame on the wall just hours before friends, family and media came through the doors. I could only think “There is only one chance to make a first impression” and it was not going to be perfect. For the beginning of the night this empty frame was really bothering me and keeping me from having a good time and welcoming our clients properly. Not long after, a guest told me that she loved our piece of modern art, pointing at the empty frame. We could not stop laughing when I told her that the modern piece of art was in fact a missing mirror. It was then that I realized that I was the only one focusing on this, it made it easier to relax and enjoy the night. I learned that I should let go a little, not everything will go as planned, after all you cannot control everything that goes on in your restaurant. Although, I have to admit, it is a work in process.
Can you tell us a story about the hard times that you faced when you first started your journey? How did you overcome this obstacle?
Opening a restaurant in another country is very challenging. You really do start form scratch and have to find a good team that you can rely on to help you build what you have envisioned. In our case, the very first step was finding a real estate broker, a lawyer, an accountant and a general contractor. Once you get the ball running, the list just goes on– you need to find staff, food and beverage suppliers, maintenance services, marketing and PR agencies, and IT services, just to name a few. You have to be resourceful, and never be afraid to ask everyone around you– you never know what contacts they have. Of course, the internet is an amazing resource, but we have found that the recommendations from people you know work best, there is a kind of proven record and connection.
In your experience, what is the key to creating a dish that customers are crazy about?
In my opinion, it ultimately comes down to flavor, which is the result of both the ingredients and the cooking process. My grandmother always insists on not compromising the quality of the ingredients and respecting the recipes. Before being added to the menu. every dish undergoes a series of trials and errors. With each iteration, refinements are introduced to elevate flavor, presentation, texture, and even temperature.
Personally, what is the ‘perfect meal for you’?
When I think of the perfect meal, I am transported to my parents’ house in Valle de Bravo, a charming lakeside town near Mexico City. It is a sunny day, and I find myself sitting on the terrace table surrounded by family and some friends, overlooking the lake. I can smell the sizzling steaks, shrimp and vegetables on the grill while we enjoy the snacks on the table. In hand, a refreshing cocktail, probably an Aperol Spritz. The background music blends perfectly with the conversation. The hours go by, and conversation flows seamlessly until the day transitions into night. This is what is famously known as “la sobremesa” in Mexico.
Where does your inspiration for creating come from? Is there something that you turn to for a daily creativity boost?
Inspiration normally comes from a mixture of interactions. Discussing dishes or cocktails with your staff and challenging or welcoming their input. Listen to your customers, ask what they would like to see added to the menu. Consult your suppliers about the freshest, seasonal ingredients they offer. Explore restaurants that you have not tried yet. Keep an eye on relevant social media accounts to see the latest trends and innovations in the industry.
Are you working on any new or exciting projects now? What impact do you think this will have?
We have recently inaugurated our second restaurant in the heart of New York City’s Flatiron district. The expansion to a second location forces you to change the way you operate since it forces you to rely more on your team. This experience has proven very rewarding, as I’ve witnessed my team’s professional growth and witnessed their support. While a second location does provide greater exposure, you are still new to the neighborhood so you need to get the word out that you are open.
What advice would you give to other restaurateurs to thrive and avoid burnout?
Attempting to manage everything yourself is impossible. The first step is assembling a reliable management team, team members who share the restaurant’s objectives and values and can be entrusted with responsibilities. This, in my opinion, is the most challenging yet crucial stages for success. Then effective prioritization comes into play. There will be a great number of tasks to be done, I found it helpful to write them down and tackle what I think is more urgent. This provides me with clarity and ensures that crucial matters aren’t overlooked. Ultimately, delegation is key. Providing your team with the resources and support empowers them to excel.
Thank you for all that. Now we are ready for the main question of the interview. What are your “5 Things I Wish Someone Told Me When I First Started as a Restaurateur” and why?
- Perception can be quite tricky, we’ve encountered cases where one table finds a dish too spicy, while another insisits it is not spicy enough. No matter how hard you try there will inevitably be clients who will not like your restaurant. Recognizing that pleasing everyone is impossible will save you some stress along the way.
- Which brings me to my second point, negative feedback and harsh reviews can be very hurtful. However, reframing these moments as opportunities for improvement is key. I’ve come to understand that attentive listening and a sincere apology can often fix the majority of negative situations.
- Be prepared to be ‘on’ around the clock. Given the extended hours of operation for restaurants, expect to receive calls, emails, or messages at all hours. Furthermore, the times when you’ll likely be busiest often coincide with when most people you know are free.
- Be aware that being a restaurateur entails far more than welcoming guests and enjoying dining experiences. While this might seem obvious, many fail to realize that overseeing HR, maintenance, finance, accounting, IT, marketing and other administrative responsibilities becomes a daily commitment on top of the day-to-day operations.
- Understand that the workload does not end. While not exclusive to restaurateurs, it’s worth mentioning. Regardless of how much you get done, remember that there will always be more tasks to tackle. So, make sure you take a break, recharge, and enjoy what you have achieved so far with the ones you love.
What’s the one dish people have to try if they visit your establishment?
Undoubtedly, one of our standout dishes is the Chicken with mole Xico. Our mole sauce is truly distinctive, crafted from a blend of over 25 ingredients. It is so complex and time-consuming to prepare that only a handful of skilled women in our sister restaurants in Mexico City know the complete process. We understand that its flavor is unique and might not resonate with everyone, yet we consistently encourage guests to give it a try.
You are a person of enormous influence. If you could inspire a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger.
We all have our favorite spots where we feel at home, but don’t be afraid to explore new places now and then, even if it’s just once a month. You might discover something unexpected that becomes your new favorite. Take that friend you’ve been wanting to see — it’ll be worth it. I believe restaurants are a perfect place for connecting.
Thank you so much for these insights. This was very inspirational!
Sebastian Ramirez Degollado: 5 Things I Wish Someone Told Me Before I Became a Restaurateur was originally published in Authority Magazine on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.