An Interview With Martita Mestey
What nobody told me is that this industry would bring me incredible friendships with people from diverse backgrounds who share the same passion for food, music, and design. I’ve forged meaningful connections that will last a lifetime, and I’m grateful to both this industry and my restaurants for granting me such enriching experiences.
As part of our series about “5 Things I Wish Someone Told Me Before I Became a Restaurateur”, I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing Andres Diaz.
Andres Diaz has 15 years of experience in the New York City restaurant industry. He has worked at Jacques, Café Gitane, Circle Rouge, Café Noir, and Felix Brasserie among others. Andres has developed a passion for food/ cuisine over the years. He’s now the Founder and Managing Partner of Her Name was Carmen and La Rubia, and he is working very hard to expand the brand to different locations.
Thank you so much for doing this with us! Our readers would love to ‘get to know’ you a bit. Can you share with our readers a story about what inspired you to become a restaurateur?
Hi, thanks for the invitation, very happy about this interview. I arrived in New York at 19 years old and landed my first job at a cozy French bistro. Growing up, my family had a deep love for cooking, and we always planned our holidays around trying new restaurants and cuisines. As I gained experience in the bustling restaurant scene, I realized there was a gap in the market for Latin American cuisine. While there were a lot of Cuban and taco places, I saw an opportunity to create a fresh and unique Latin American concept that showcased the diverse flavors and culinary traditions of the region.
Fueled by my passion for cooking and the desire to fill this void, I embarked on a journey to create a distinctive dining experience. It was an exciting chance to introduce the richness and diversity of Latin American flavors to the New York food scene. Combining my background, family influences, and untapped potential, I became inspired to become a restaurateur and bring my vision to life.
Do you have a specific type of food that you focus on? What was it that first drew you to cooking that type of food? Can you share a story about that with us?
At Her Name Was Carmen, our focus is on a fusion seafood-oriented menu that highlights the vibrant flavors and ambiance of Latin America. We wanted to bring something fresh and exciting to the New York dining scene, as there were only a few upscale Mexican restaurants at the time. We saw an opportunity to showcase the richness of Latin American cuisine through a unique culinary experience.
Similarly, with La Rubia, our aim was to create a raw bar seafood menu that celebrated the coastal treasures of Latin America. We noticed a gap in the market, as many raw bars leaned towards New England traditions. We wanted to bring the flavors of the Caribbean bountiful seafood to the forefront and offer a captivating experience for seafood enthusiasts.
Can you share the funniest or most interesting story that happened to you since you became a restaurateur? What was the lesson or take away you took out of that story?
One funny (yet somewhat tragic) story that comes to mind is when we mistakenly had our gas cut off due to a payment mix-up. I had confused the account for the restaurant with my apartment’s, and I thought we were on autopay, so we found ourselves without gas in the middle of winter. Guests had to dine wearing their coats, and it was quite a stressful situation. Looking back, I can now laugh about it, but it was definitely a challenging experience.
On a more interesting note, our downstairs lounge at Carmen had the opportunity to be featured in the Sex and the City remake, “And Just Like That.” It was a delightful surprise to see our vibrant lounge portrayed as an LGBT+ bar and showcased as the place where Miranda and Che reconnected in the season’s final episode. Witnessing Carmen on screen and seeing it accurately portrayed as the diverse and inclusive place it truly is in real life brought me immense joy.
Can you tell us a story about the hard times that you faced when you first started your journey? How did you overcome this obstacle?
Opening and running a restaurant is always described as a challenging endeavor, but nothing could have prepared us for the immense hardship brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic. At Her Name Was Carmen, just 15 months after our grand opening, we were hit hard. Overnight, we had to lay off our entire staff and our income came to a grinding halt. We felt like we lost our purpose of hospitality
Yet, through the dark times, we found glimmers of hope and resilience. Our incredible clientele and partners stepped up to support us in various ways. They donated meals for healthcare workers at an affordable price and purchased our merchandise, which helped us keep some of our staff employed until government assistance arrived. Their unwavering support became our lifeline, reminding us of the power of community in times of crisis. Slowly, but surely, we managed to overcome this immense challenge and emerge stronger than ever before.
In your experience, what is the key to creating a dish that customers are crazy about?
When it comes to crafting a dish at our restaurants, we always start with an ingredient that sparks our curiosity and sets our taste buds tingling. It’s like a little adventure in the kitchen! Once we have that ingredient in mind, we let our imaginations run wild and incorporate flavors and techniques from our home countries.
Personally, what is the ‘perfect meal for you’?
Ah, the perfect meal is all about freshness and great company. If I had to choose my ideal dishes, it would start with oysters, followed by a refreshing salad of endive and sunchokes, topped with crunchy hazelnuts and zesty Meyer lemon, like the one we have at Carmen
Next on the menu, I can’t resist some morel mushrooms and a fresh piece of fish like the halibut from La Rubia or the Arctic char from Carmen, and because I adore veggies, a side of carrots or Brussels sprouts with salsa Verde always finds its way to my plate. And let’s not forget about indulging in a sinful treat like flan or tres leches from our dessert selection. And when it comes to wine, I have a thing for white Burgundy.
Where does your inspiration for creating come from? Is there something that you turn to for a daily creativity boost?
Definitely from Colombia and our rich Caribbean culture. Our rich variety of ingredients and fresh fruits and seafood and when it comes to interiors, I love the colors of Cartagena and the simplicity of mid-century Danish design
Are you working on any new or exciting projects now? What impact do you think this will have?
Yes, we are working on a new tapas and cocktail bar that will mostly cater to our diverse gay community downtown. That’s all I can say for now 🙂
What advice would you give to other restaurateurs to thrive and avoid burnout?
If there’s one piece of advice I’d give to my younger colleagues, it would be to prioritize finding and nurturing a strong team. In this line of work, it’s all about the people. No matter how amazing your product or marketing strategies are, it ultimately boils down to the team’s dedication and exceptional customer service. Building positive interactions with customers is what truly sets a business apart.
Thank you for all that. Now we are ready for the main question of the interview. What are your “5 Things I Wish Someone Told Me When I First Started as a Restaurateur” and why? Please share a story or an example for each.
- One important piece of advice I would give is to avoid hiring friends without experience in the hospitality industry. While it may seem like anyone can handle a restaurant job, the reality is that this industry is complex and demands specific skills for success. As a leader, it is crucial to maintain high standards and hold your team accountable. Mixing personal and professional relationships can create misunderstandings and potentially strain friendships, which are ultimately more valuable than business.
- I was always told that getting permits and licenses in NY is difficult but I never imagined just how long and complex the process was. I had heard that the process could be challenging, but I never anticipated just how lengthy and complex it would be. With La Rubia, we waited a year and a half for our liquor license, operating without it for six long months. It became clear that without the license, customers were hesitant to order seafood towers or indulge in oysters. Moving forward, I’ve learned my lesson: for my next restaurant, I’ll make sure to only open once the license is proudly displayed on the wall.
- If there’s one thing I’ve learned the hard way, it’s the importance of soundproofing. Growing up in Colombia, where brick and concrete walls are the norm, I never realized how thin the walls could be in the US. It’s incredible how noise can travel and disrupt the dining experience, not to mention disturb the neighbors. We recently completed a costly and extensive soundproofing project at Carmen, and looking back, I wish I had known about this five years ago. It would have saved me both money and countless gray hairs!
- When it comes to food costs, hiring an experienced chef with a Michelin background doesn’t automatically guarantee profitability. I’ve learned that closely monitoring food costs from the start is essential. It’s important to compare prices from different vendors and maintain quality without overspending. This was something I didn’t fully grasp five years ago, and I had to learn the hard way. The pandemic further taught me how to operate within tighter budgets, reinforcing the importance of managing food costs effectively.
- Lastly, what nobody told me is that this industry would bring me incredible friendships with people from diverse backgrounds who share the same passion for food, music, and design. I’ve forged meaningful connections that will last a lifetime, and I’m grateful to both this industry and my restaurants for granting me such enriching experiences.
What’s the one dish people have to try if they visit your establishment?
At Carmen, I think our morel mushrooms and the arctic char are the highlights on the menu. And for La Rubia, I would say the ceviche and the crab dip along with the lobster and shrimp roll are what I am often ordering when I dine there. Also our streak tartare is amazing… at both locations!
You are a person of enormous influence. If you could inspire a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger.
Wow what a question, not sure I have enormous influence, but I think that promoting empathy and understanding people from diverse backgrounds can go a long way in solving many of the world’s problems. Living in a vibrant city like New York has taught me to appreciate and value the richness that different cultures bring to the table. By embracing diversity and taking the time to understand everyone’s unique perspectives and contexts, we can create a more harmonious and inclusive society.
Thank you so much for these insights. This was very inspirational!
Andres Diaz Of La Rubia: 5 Things I Wish Someone Told Me Before I Became a Restaurateur was originally published in Authority Magazine on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.